By Jimmy Lamb

If you were given the choice of sewing on a denim shirt or a t-shirt, which would you choose? That’s a no-brainer! Most embroiderers would choose the denim shirt, as it is typically easier to hoop and yields higher embroidery quality. Of course, that is no accident – denim is a very stable fabric, while a t-shirt is made from a knitted fabric, which generally is “stretchy” and flexible in nature. This makes it much more difficult to hoop and sew. But knit fabrics are a staple of the embroidery industry, so the challenges must be overcome in order to be successful in this business.

The characteristics that make sewing on knits so difficult are the same ones that make the material so popular with consumers. Knits are composed of interlocking looped stitches, which provide a fair degree of stretch and flex, making them the ideal choice for creating comfortable clothing. In addition, knits tend to shed wrinkles well and don’t unravel when embroidered.

However, knit fabrics are not all created equal; they come in a variety of textures, weights and fiber contents. Here are some examples:

Firm Knits – These knits are not very stretchy and can almost be treated like wovens. Examples include double knits and Raschel knits.

Lightweight Single Knits – These have a moderate stretch. Examples include tricot and jersey knits. Jersey knits are commonly used in lightweight polos and t-shirts.

Interlock Knits – These knits are heavier and thicker than single knits and have a fair amount of stretch. They are used in heavier grade polo shirts and t-shirts.

Textured Knits – These knits tend to be heavyweight with textured surfaces and have a moderate amount of stretch. Examples include knitted terry and velour, sweater knits and fleece.

Two-way Stretch Knits – These are unique in that they stretch both in length and width, whereas the other categories of knit have considerably more stretch in one direction than the other. Two way stretch knits tend to have a large amount of spandex fibers and are usually selected for activewear such as bathing suits and dancewear.

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